![]() ![]() Brush on a liquid binder, such as Plaster Weld, which removes dust and provides a stronger bond for the plaster.Wire brush the lath to remove dust and any plaster still clinging to the wood.Be careful not to loosen plaster at the edges,.Remove plaster from between strips of lath (the keys) using light taps with a hammer or the edge of a trowel.Remove all plaster within the scored area until you reach original plaster at the perimeter that is still tight to the lath. ![]() Get a second person involved if necessary.This is especially important at the scored edges. Support adjacent pieces of loose plaster to prevent them from being dislodged by the piece being removed.Carefully remove pieces of plaster by hand, one piece at a time.Be aware that a larger area of plaster may fall than expected.Protect the floor from falling plaster.Wear eye protection against plaster dust and debris falling from the attic above.Identify “buckles”-creases where loose plaster transitions to tight plaster-then carefully score it with a utility knife. ![]() Here’s an outline of his step-by-step approach: Define the Size of the Patch The Solution: Contain the damage and avoid taking down the whole ceiling, then make a durable patch that matches the orange peel finish on the original ceiling. A small chunk of plaster is missing, but a large area around it is loose and has separated as much as 6 inches from the lath. The Problem: Somebody in the attic stepped onto the plaster ceiling below. Hard to tell, I know.A master stucco and plaster contractor shows how he repairs lath and plaster problems Sorry about the photo, it shows the original exterior doors mounted to a new frame in a wall built inside of the old blown in insulation with lath and plaster wall, insulated with rockwool and sealed with DB+. I am using a paper smart retarder that is a little like goretex cool but expensive. I've attached a photo of the job we are currently working on that sounds similar to yours. Lime is extremely hygrophilic, so this final layer will actually pull moisture out of the wall assembly and move it to the interior where it can be dissipated. ![]() This gives the wall that old world look that is finally becoming popular. If you are happy with that cool, but I usually will paint on a lime wash and trowel that wet as well. Sand between coats to get that really flat pro look. Mix the 2 well and then apply with a 9" roller, troweling smooth before it dries with a Marshalltown plasterer's trowel or similar. Make sure to buy the non-toxic varieties of both I use Proform joint compound which is Greenguard certified and a zero VOC latex paint like Benjamin Moore's. For each 5-gal bucket of all purpose joint compound add 1 gal of latex paint. This sounds expensive, but is the very cheapest finish for the DIY type. If it were me, I would remove all the drywall that is practical, tidy up the insulation and then either add an air barrier/vapor retarder or go with what's called the air tight drywall approach, since drywall with plaster/paint is a vapor retarder/air barrier.Īir tight drywall is easily achieved with a latex-modified gypsum plaster. What you are really after is a way to stop the air from exiting the home into the wall, as this air typically has a higher moisture content than outside air and if temps are lower than the dewpoint, that airborne moisture will condense inside of the wall. This may seem like no big deal, but if you didn't detail your windows or roof properly, then it will soon become your worst nightmare. I always recommend no vapor barrier as these do not allow the building to dry to the inside. Pays off in the long run when you are buying heat!Īs a historic home restoration professional, I get this asked a lot. And new insulation there while the walls are open.Īlso see if your utility company, extension service or whatever can put you onto a good place to do a infrared chekc of where the heat is leaking out of your house. The vapor barrier should be built around these areas for sure if you plan to go and add it in. They need ventilation to outside, with condensate lines if possible (sometimes this is required by code). Unclear on the insulation - is this loose fill blown in? Did previous owner top up the stud cavities and the attic? That's the way to go if you don't plan to tear out plaster.įocus on kitchen and bath spaces - anywhere with water vapor sources. Not much real world gain in adding the styrofoam, unless there was NO insulation in the walls. I would have resurfaced teh plaster, or ripped it out. Is there styrofoam then drywall tacked up over the old plaster and lathe walls? My best guess is that that was meant to provide a better surface for paint. Sorry trouble with posting - took too long to think. ![]()
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